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Surfing in Hawaii

May 29, 2009 by Ted Felber 

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One of the most magnificent things to see is a surfer making their way through the tubes of the waves. While many of the islands enjoy ridiculous swells, the most predominant hit in between October and run through March. While you’re there, you will see that the northern shores of Oahu get the popularity. Most people believe it’s because of the waves that reach as high as thirty feet, but others simply enjoy the location to watch. Years ago it was the Polynesian culture that set their ways on this land and delivered future stories of their unbelievable achievements regarding surfing.

It’s an age old sport that is considered a sport of royalty. Seriously, the word “surfing” is actually known to many Hawaiians as wave sliding. However, back in the day it was a way for individuals to show their strength and power. In fact, King Kamehameha was known as one of the most prolific surfers during his time.

Although surfing diminished in popularity in the 1800’s under the influence of the missionaries and the appearance of immigrants brought in to work on the sugar plantations, surfing in Hawaii regained its popularity as a sport when Duke Kahanamoku burst onto the scene in the early 1900s. Highly thought of as the “father of modern surfing”, Duke was also an Olympic gold medal winner in swimming, and drew on his fame to spread the popularity of surfing.

Early surfers risked their lives to take on the giant waves with riding boards made from balsa wood and hewn redwood. Since then, surfing in Hawaii became increasingly popular due to the modern boards, lighter and faster. The number of surfers has exploded, especially in Haleiwa, on Oahu’s North Shore, where every winter pros from around the world come here to practice the surf slang and catch “the perfect wave”.

On other Hawaiian beaches on Kauai, Maui and even Big Island, surfers test their guts to win big prizes in surfing championships. Recently, tow-in surfing has been introduced – when the surfer is towed out by boat to reach waves he would normally not be able to get to by arm paddling. As a result, pro surfers are now getting to monster waves as high as 60 feet, giving rise to a category of athletes called “The Big Wave Surfer”.

In summer, the best surfing in Hawaii is on the South shores of Waikiki, Maui and Kauai, as waves generated by storms in the South Pacific, hit the Hawaiian islands. Waves are gentler but still offer great surfing conditions. Oahu’s North Shore is NOT the place for your vacation if you’re a beginner surfer, but it’s a great place to visit just for the show! If you are a novice, go to Waikiki and Diamond Head Beach in Oahu, Hanalei Bay and Poipu Beach in Kauai, and Maalaea, Lahaina and Puamana Beach in Maui.

Even if you’ve never experienced the ocean and got a view from a surf board, you can still learn to surf in Hawaii. There’s a plethora of surfing classes available, but most of them will be found in Waikiki. The best part about it is that there are all kinds of surfing instructors available that will guarantee you’ll be standing on your board when you finish your first lesson.

It doesn’t matter if you’re male or female because anyone can enjoy the pleasures of surfing in Hawaii. Whether its surf and spa area, a nice exotic location, or anything else, you will be able to enjoy the pampering during your stay. The only thing you’ll have to worry about is whether or not there is sand in your surf wax.

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